Archive for the ‘Beginners Guide to Surfing’ Category

Nice Rack Guide to Duck-diving

Wednesday, September 21st, 2011
This entry is part 8 of 8 in the series Nice Rack Beginner's Guide to Surfing

In this edition of the Nice Rack Beginner’s Guide to Surfing I hope to explain what duck-diving is for those who are not familiar with surfing and give those who do not know how to duck-dive some how-to advice. For those who can already duck-dive, I’d like to share some tips to get the most out of your dive.

First things first, the term itself: duck-diving, means to do as a do as a duck and submerse oneself. If you spend some time observing actual ducks or seabirds you will notice that every so often they will disappear under the water’s surface, they do this to look for food. Sometimes sea birds will pop back up with a wiggling fish in their mouth. (Note to beginners: avoid this.)

The function of duck-diving is to push past the walls of incoming waves. By submersing the entire surfboard and one’s body the surge of water created by a breaking wave can be avoided. It is often the case that surfers use duck-dives to escape the brute force of a wave, especially when waves are larger. While duck-diving is the go-to maneuver for most surfers and is easily the safest and most efficient way to get to the outside of a break.

The turtle roll-technique involves rolling upside-down while still holding the board. This technique blocks the impact of the wave, but it causes the surfer to lose any moment they had paddling out, which is one reason duck-dives are a valuable skill. Duck-diving will slow you down some, but usually this technique will afford you time to paddle and prepare to catch or avoid the next wave in the set.

Now to the good stuff: how to duck dive. As with most techniques in surfing, there are many personal variations; the following are meant to get new duck-divers started.

  1. Paddle towards a wave, it is important to make sure you are avoiding the paths of other surfers, for more info on this visit this post on the rules of surfing.
  2. Paddle hard, your momentum will help you. Don’t forget to breathe though, remember that you’re heading under.
  3. Point your surfboard straight into the wave, the straighter your angle the less force will be exerted on you. If you are turned sideways you will chances of getting flipped up and over into the impact zone.
  4. Place one knee on the tail of your board, where the tail-pad on a shortboard is placed.
  5. Press down with your knee while doing a push-up motion with your upper body; the goal is to push your board as deep under water as possible.
  6. Quickly follow your board under the water, as the wave passes over your body, be sure to keep the nose of your board pointing upward. Exhale through your nostrils and relax as you pop out of the other side of the wave unscathed!

Tips:

  1. The board you are riding greatly effects your duckdive, the more volume you have the harder it will be to push your board under water. Because they are voluminous beginners boards are often the most difficult to dive. To learn duckdiving I advise practicing with a  shortboard on a small day, or in a swimming pool.
  2. Because a board is voluminous does not mean it will not duck-dive! Instead of pushing your board flat against the water, turn it slightly to one rail and “knife” it into the water. By repeating this process on both sides you can get very deep underwater, it’s a trick of big wave surfers!
  3. Some people push down with their foot rather than their knee to get deeper. While this might work for some, I’ve found that a well executed duck-dive using my knee works best.

Hope this helps you get started!

If you have any secrets or tips let us know on Facebook !

For more beautiful photos like the one above check out: nollie.tv

Shakas

-Jason

Nice Rack Guide to Bodysurfing

Thursday, August 25th, 2011
This entry is part 7 of 8 in the series Nice Rack Beginner's Guide to Surfing

photo: Worldbodysurfing.org

If you’ve been keeping your finger on the pulse of the surf world for the past few years, you’ve probably noticed a resurgence of the sport of bodysurfing. Although Nice Rack designs products for surfboards, snowboards, wakeboards and kiteboards, we understand the importance of bodysurfing in surf culture and history. So, if you didn’t get a chance head to the Oceanside Pier last Sunday to check out the finals of the World Championship of Bodysurfing here are the results:


Woman’s Grand Champion: Patty Mackle
Men’s Grand Champion: Dave Ford
Team Champion: Pine Street

Other news in the world of bodysurfing is that Chris Malloy will soon be unleashing the first ever bodysurfing-centric surf film: Come Hell or High Water. Many know that Chris, like his brothers, is a pro surfer, but he also is an experienced waterman who placed 6th at the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic in 2005. Other noteworthy contributors to this project were Bruce Brown (The Endless Summer) Cyrus Sutton (Korduroy.tv) and Tyler Manson (Hi Shredability). The film’s Southern California premiere will be on September 23rd at the La Paloma Theater in Encinitas. Hopefully I will have some premiere coverage for the blog!

The following is the beginners guide to bodysurfing, presented by NICE RACK
1. Go to the beach
2. Swim into a wave towards the shore and ride that sucka out.
3. Repeat!
REMEMBER: waves are powerful and often dangerous, watch out for other surfers and take time to study conditions like rip-tides and undertows. Nice Rack is in no way responsible for your safety, especially if you surf The Wedge.

Optional

  • Fins allow you to swim much more efficiently which is nice in powerful surf.
  • Hand planes are a flat surface that allows the bodysurfer some leverage on the wave. They make a DIY project and can be made from many different materials.

Did you know our racks make a great place to hang your fins and handplanes? Try it, send us a picture on Facebook and I will be forever grateful.

-Jason

The Unwritten Rules of Surfing

Thursday, January 20th, 2011
This entry is part 6 of 8 in the series Nice Rack Beginner's Guide to Surfing

You don’t drive a car without learning the road laws, just like you can’t foul indefinitely in basketball or any sport for that matter. Surfing is no different. The following explains the Rules of the Wave every beginner surfer must know to avoid severe stink-eye or possibly being put in the ‘kook’ penalty box.rules of the waves

1- Right of way: the surfer that catches a wave closest to its peak (the steepest part of the wave that is closest to the curling lip or otherwise breaking whitewater) has the right of way. So if two or more surfers are paddling for the same wave and heading in the same direction the surfer on the ‘inside’ usually has priority.* If you drop into a wave in a crowded line-up, it’s best to give a quick glance to make sure no one is behind you. If someone is in front of you then it’s customary to alert them to get off your wave by shouting a loud-owl-like ‘whooooo-oooooo’. Yelping ‘heyyyyyyy’ works fine too. My personal choice is the standard ‘yyyyyhhheeeeeeeuuuu’. Just make sure its loud enough to hear and no matter what, if you call someone off a wave you had better commit to catching it. Nothing screams Kook Alert like hesitation.

2- Paddling Out: A surfer paddling out must always yield to the surfer riding a wave, even if that means taking a lip on the head or suffering a beat down from some soupy whitewash. If its clear you can scramble to the safety of the shoulder of an oncoming wave without jeopardizing the surfer’s ride, then go for it. But the default move is to head straight for the inside of the wave towards the whitewash and let the surfer riding have the right of way to the shoulder. Nevertheless, its important to be as decisive and obvious as possible in which direction you are paddling to advise the surfer which path to take on the wave. There is nothing more frustrating then a paddling surfer ruining a wave for another by getting stuck in analysis paralysis. Pick a direction (preferably towards the inside of the wave) and stick to it.

Wilbur Kookmeyer

Wilbur Kookmeyer

3- Right or Left: When a wave breaks in both directions this is called an A-frame. To avoid confusion, call out in which direction you plan on going ahead of time. In other words, if you are paddling for the left, holler out “Going left’ loud and clear. It’s customary for surfers to ‘split’ waves when possible to allow one surfer to go right and the other left, and appreciated by everyone still waiting for a wave.

* Paddling Around: This important Code of Conduct is often ignored but equally important. Nothing irks a surfer more than getting ‘snaked’. However, just as bothersome is the Paddle-Jockey. When entering a line-up or immediately after catching a wave its good practice to position yourself further towards the rear or side of the line-up. While it generally goes unspoken, wave priority is often based on who has been in position waiting the longest. Paddling around a group of surfers to position oneself closest to the peak is the equivalent of dropping-in to most surfers, and often the source of resentment against longboarders.

Note: This rule does not apply at extremely crowded spots. Get your waves anyway possible! Nor do Brazilians typically obey regardless :)

How Tides Affect Surfing Conditions

Wednesday, August 11th, 2010

Tide knowledge can be invaluable for timing a great surf session. Wanna know if you should surf dawn patrol or leave your surfboard in its rack for another hour or two while you catch up on some zzz? Check the tide report.

Reading a tide report is actually quite easy. Tides advance and retreat in wave-like motion as indicated in the image below.

tide chart

The row of numbers along the bottom represents the time of day, while the numbers along the left indicate the height of the tide. Therefore its easy to determine tide height at any given point in the day by matching the hour with the corresponding tide measurement.

So how do tides affect surfing conditions? Well, this is where it can get tricky. The general rule of thumb is most reef breaks will turn on when the tide is low-pushing-high, while beach breaks usually work better with a medium tide. However, keep in mind this is just a guideline and not the rule. Each surf spot handles tide changes differently, and there is no substitute for surf break familiarity.

So next time you surf a specific break, take a mental note to what the tide is doing and how it is affecting the way the waves are breaking. Are the waves breaking slow and mushy on the higher tide, or fast and steep on the lower tide? Surfing is all about experience, and understanding tides is an important skill that will help you for as long as you’re a surfer.