Ever wonder how surfers escape the pummeling effects of oncoming breakers? Its not magic, but it does require some technique.
Most surfers are familiar with the term “duck diving”, referring to the process of ducking your surfboard under an oncoming wave. However, if you’re a beginner surfer, chances are you are learning to surf on a Longboard which requires a slightly different approach to getting beyond the breakers.
Although Longboards are great for stability, the extra length and width provides more buoyancy making it not only easier to paddle but also harder to submerge. So when attempting to paddle past the white wash waves on the inside, you’re going to need to learn how to turtle dive.
This simple technique involves turning your board upside down over your submerged body and letting the oncoming wave basically roll over you with as little friction as possible. The key is to align your board perpendicular to the shore where the nose of your Longboard is angled straight at the oncoming wave, and the bottom (fin side) facing the sky. Align your body directly underneath your board with your arms out in front of your chest, slightly bent, and keep a firm grip.
Timing is important. Try to flip over only 2-3 seconds before the waves reaches you. At the point of impact, keep your core flexed. The success of this technique is dependent on keeping your surfboard under control. A strong core will help keep your body aligned underneath your board as the wave tumbles over it. Hold on tight, you can use your legs if you have to.
Once the wave has passed, quickly re-assess your surroundings. If the coast is clear, flip your board over, hop back on and continue paddling. Repeat these steps as necessary.
Tags: learn to surf, surf tips
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A must read blog for beginners and longboarders like me. It can be so frustrating getting the board out there but so much easier riding it in!
Thanks for this blog for beginners like me its helpful
[...] turtle roll-technique involves rolling upside-down while still holding the board. This technique blocks the [...]